Winter Adventures - Southern Style

I say it every year about this time, but y’all can have your snow and downhill slopes, your cross country ski courses, ice skates, and snowshoes. But as for me and my family, we will follow the birds.

Every flying V formation overhead is a reminder that a more hospitable environment awaits farther south. And at some point each winter, our family tries to take a road trip to go find it. 

Wheeler Wildlife Refuge - Decatur, Alabama

This year, our six-day migration started at Wheeler Wildlife Refuge in Decatur, Alabama. This spot has become one of our family favorites due to the large population of Sandhill Cranes that visit each winter. When we were there, an estimated 17,000 were wintering in the refuge and the number was expected to increase by several thousand more before hitting peak in mid-January.

The thing about Wheeler and the Sandhill Cranes that is impossible to convey in pictures is that visiting them is a full body experience. These birds are noisy! And the calls they make seem to reverberate throughout your body like a cat purring on your lap. There is something rhythmic and mesmerizing about it all. As I told my husband on this trip, “It feels like a soul massage.”

And it’s not just Sandhill cranes at Wheeler; the refuge attracts numerous migrating waterfowl including America’s tallest flying bird, the Whooping Crane. In the 1940s this five-foot tall bird was on the brink of extinction with an estimated 15 - 20 surviving in the wild. Now, with over eight decades of concerted conservation efforts, there are around 800. Still endangered, still a long way to go. But what an awesome conservation turn around!! When we visited in late December, we were lucky enough to see three of them.

Morton, Mississippi

Our next stop on the winter migration was to our friends’ cattle farm near Morton, Mississippi. We usually visit and share info on public lands to help get people outside. And I don’t think our farming friends in MS want everyone lining up at their door for a visit. But here’s the thing about farmers... they are the OG outdoorsman. Farmers have a better understanding of nature than an outdoor adventurer ever will. It is an optional privilege to adventure; it is an unrelenting  responsibility to run a farm. But for a few days, farming can feel deceivingly fun.

Our family fed the cows, checked the fencing, rode on the four-wheeler and generally felt more useful than we really were. And at night we marveled at the brightness of the stars in the middle of nowhere Mississippi. 

One of the drawbacks of owning livestock or growing crops is that it is really challenging to leave your land. There are everyday chores that must be performed and a knowledge that when things go awry someone has to be there ready to respond. But with a little patience and instruction, families like ours can be serviceable farm sitters. And one of the best win-win-win outdoor situations I can think of is to connect with farmer friends, learn enough to adequately fill the role, and enjoy a farm stay while giving your friends a break!

Perdido Key, Florida

From Mississippi we crossed back through Alabama and Mobile Bay to land at Perdido Key, Florida. With our camping gear at the ready, we were prepared to stay at nearby Gulf State Park in Alabama or Big Lagoon in Florida. Turns out our summer camp friends graciously invited us to stay with them in their tight two-bedroom condo. With 11 of us total, it still felt a bit like camping but was much warmer at night - and with all the amenities. 

During the day we played on the beach and Brew and I took turns running through Perdido Key State Park. We mostly head toward the Atlantic Coast for our beach adventures so it pains me slightly to admit this, but I think the Gulf might be superior. The sand is so white and soft. (Our friend’s five-year old described it as “fluffy” and I think she’s spot on.) And while my experience isn’t extensive the water always seems calmer and clearer than on the Eastern Seaboard. 

We saw several dolphins swimming off-shore and when there was a disturbance fifty yards out that couldn’t be identified, our friend flew up his drone and found a huge group of cownose rays passing by. 

Trivia: What do you call a group of rays?? (Answer: A Fever! A fever of rays. How fun is that?!)

Manatee Springs State Park - Ch

From Perdido Key we drove to Manatee Springs State Park. We all know Florida is the butt of many a joke but their state park system is superior in nature. And, yes ; ) That was a double- entendre.

Florida has a network of over 175 State Parks, Trails and Historic Sites. We have visited and camped at a number of them stretching from the Everglades to the Panhandle and I am always so impressed with the camping options, customer service, and multitude of wildlife that we encounter. 

At Manatee Springs we were hoping for the aforementioned manatee. And there was a group of about ten huddled together near the mouth of the 72’ degree freshwater spring. There was also an alligator swimming across the waterway, but it was really the buzzards that stole the show. No, they are not as majestic nor do they have the massaging reverb of the Sandhill cranes. But there were hundreds of them in a rookery along the banks of the Suwannee River and it was somewhat hypnotic to watch them swirl and circle overhead.

Trivia: What is a group of Buzzards called? (Answer: A wake. You’d have to be asleep to forget that one!) 

Another plus for Florida State Parks is that many of them, including Manatee Springs, offer kayak rentals. We could view most of the wildlife from the 800-foot boardwalk that followed the edge of the water through a cypress swamp, so we opted out of a chilly morning paddle, but we did strike up a conservation with a few locals who were kitted out in scuba gear and about to launch into a murky catfish pond to start a cave diving expedition. In their words, we were standing in one of the top cave diving destinations in the world. And I will definitely take their word for it because just the thought of scuba diving through underwater caves makes me gasp for more air.

Crystal River, Florida

Our final stop was the town of Crystal River, where we rented kayaks and wetsuits and snorkels to have a close up with the manatee. This is one of the few places where manatees gather in large numbers each winter. I’ve been visiting this spot for the last five years now and have noticed an increase in tourists as well. Each year there also seem to be more and more protections for the manatees, including additional roped off areas near the springs and canals that are closed so the manatees can rest and eat without eco-adventurers like us ogling at them. 

Paddling and swimming with the manatees is one of the highlights of my year but with more and more visitors coming to Crystal River, I hope and expect that these protections will continue to increase. The amusement park atmosphere synonymous with Florida has encroached on wildlife refuges and these underwater mammals should be seen first and foremost as a threatened wildlife community rather than a tourist attraction. So...

If you head to see the Manatees:

• Do your research on how to paddle and swim near manatees safely (for them and you). 
• Try to go off-holiday, off-weekend, and off-peak hours if possible.
• Make sure your kids and friends are old enough to adhere to the guidelines and protections. (If you think they'll scream, cry, or turn their up close encounters into a petting zoo, opt to view the manatees from on land at Three Sister Springs Visitors Center.)
• If you book a tour or rent gear, go with a reputable outfitter that places more importance on manatee conservation than your social media pictures. (We have used Hunter Springs and Sea Daddy’s Adventures. and they are both great.)
• Make sure to strap all loose items to your body or boat and collect and discard any litter or debris that you find floating in the water. 
• Wear sunscreen free of oxybenzone which can be harmful to underwater plants and animals. (Our favorite family sunscreen is made nearby in Safety Harbor, Florida! Sawyer Stay-Put SPF 30 is oxybenzone, paraben, dimethicone, and fragrance free. One application lasts the whole day and one 32 oz pump bottle lasts our family all season.)  

For most of my life, the Florida Manatee has been endangered with a population dipping to around 1,000 in the 1990s. Now, the population is estimated to be around 7,500. Another comeback story! Thank you to all the volunteers and conservation groups behind this effort. Most famously, Jimmy Buffett.

The species is still considered threatened and needs continued support and advocacy. If you’re interested in learning more and/or “adopting” a manatee for about the same price as a top shelf margarita, check out www.savethemanatee.org….

Trivia: What do you call a group of manatees? Hint: Manatee are sometimes called sea cows. (Answer: Just like cattle, elk, or even kangaroos, a group of manatees is called a herd.)

I hope that this blog inspires some outdoor time, highlights some of the awesome experiences available in the Southeast, helps with planning your outdoor travel, and increases awareness and advocacy for some of the incredible animals that live in our region. Regardless of whether you are a snowbird or snow bunny, there are countless parks and critters to visit during the winter season!