For years, the Pharr Davis Crew has loved “thawing out” in Florida in the winter. This year, we had the chance to “glamp” for the first time at Camp Sawyer near Big Pine Key. It made for an amazing trip and was the perfect blend of time outdoors, good food (and drink) and sightseeing. Here were some of our highlights…
BIG PINE KEY
This was our favorite Key because it felt like going back in time 50 years. it’s a National Key Deer Wildlife Refuge so most of it is undeveloped and there’s more room to roam for "land lovers" like us. J
Blue Hole is more a roadside attraction than a proper "hike" but it’s a neat spot, a former rock quarry that now makes up the largest freshwater body of water in the island chain.
Watson- Mannillo Trails are roughly 1.3 miles of single track. They can be hiked in about 45 minutes and wind their way through Pine Rockland habitat, which is a very cool and unique ecosystem that only exists in a handful of spots in South Florida.
Key Deer are the big attraction on the island, even though they’re small. J Like most critters, they come out primarily at dawn and dusk. But if you keep your eyes peeled, you can see them crossing the road during the day. (Note: there are signs everyone saying "it's a federal offense to feed the deer." Don’t do it! That said, key deer are mooches and will sniff you out (ie, look for a handout) if they see you. So you can use that to your adventures (as we did in getting this close up photo).
No-Name Pub is an iconic spot (and a formal brothel!) that's over 100 years old and one of the best places to eat in all of the Keys. They have literally thousands (!) of dollar bills hanging from the ceiling. The pizza is famous, but we opted for the onion rings and chili nachos, which were great. My favorite was the house made smoked fish dip. Mmm.
BAHIA HONDA STATE PARK
Word on the street (er, Highway 1) is that Bahia Honda has the prettiest beach in the Keys. Plus snorkeling and a great place to watch the sunset.
Beach We spent several hours here beach combing (not a ton of shells but still fun) and getting used to the water temp before our snorkeling expedition.
Snorkeling We booked to Looe Key (no land, just a coral) with the state park concessionaire. Our captain was Australian and funny. Jen spotted a giant sea turtle, blow fish AND a tiger shark (jealous). We all saw barricudas and hundreds of tropical fish we’d only ever seen before in an aquarium. This was one of the highlights of the trip.
Bridge Part of the old highway bridge to the west is intact and makes for a great spot to take in the sunset.
KEY WEST
For a less touristy- and more family friendly- option…
Fort Zachary Taylor State Park We hit up Key West early in our trip to avoid the madness of New Year’s Eve and Day. Judging by the traffic on Highway 1, that was a good decision. We spent most of the morning and early afternoon at the beach then took a short hike around the point to the old fort. The highlight there (definitely for Gus) was seeing dozens of iguanas sunbathing, including the giant orange male ones that were probably 3.5 feet long.
Duval St We walked by Hemingway‘s house but the entry fee was a little steep ($18) and the kids weren't into it so we just looked in through the fence then went window shopping (and people watching) on Duval. The highlight was a new non-profit bookstore called Books & Books founded by children’s author Judy Bloom. We walked back on a side street that was much less touristy with beautiful old homes.
Southernmost Point If you want a photo op with the famous bouy, go early to avoid the hour long wait. We are too impatient and just took a photo nearby before heading to (drum roll)…
El Siboney Named after an indigenous tribe on the island of Cuba, this was a fantastic, quirky, and delicious restaurant. We went to the one on Stock Island which had a more neighborhood vibe and tons of character, with memorabilia on the wooden walls, delicious shredded pork, plantains, black beans and rice, and house made sangria. It was a definite hit after a long day at the beach and in town.
MARATHON
2 Mile Bridge- 100 year ago, Pigeon Key was a barracks for the wokers who built on the original Keys highway. It’s about 2 miles west of Marathon and the only way to get there is on a foot bridge (or to ride the trolley train). We didn’t pay the entry fee/trolley train for pigeon key but loved walking across the historic bridge, spotting sharks and sea turtles along the way. It was a bit windy and but otherwise gorgeous and fun to be high up over open water.
Sombrero Beach- Also considered one of the best beaches in the Keys, Sombrero has a great playground for kids and was less crowded (although that’s probably because it was a more windy and cold than the other days).
Turtle Hospital- We didn’t visit this because we wanted to spend more time outside. But it’s a big Marathon attraction and based on the reviews, probably worth the visit.
Tavernier – Jen rolled her eyes when I said I wanted to stop at the Blond Giraffe Key Lime Pie Factory. But my new year’s resolution did NOT involve giving up treats so I was got my way and I think the whole family is glad I did. I highly recommend pie with the MERENGUE, which has the slightest bit of crunch from the crystallized sugar on top. Mmm.
BIG CYPRESS NATIONAL PRESERVE VISITORS CENTER
If you drive between Miami and Naples, take the southern route (highway 41) instead of the interstate. You can stop at Shark Valley in the Everglades. Or, our favorite rest stop ANYWHERE is the Big Cypress Visitors Center with a boardwalk over a canal where there are dozens of alligators sunbathing, not to mention Florida gar and turtles swimming around. AND, it’s the southern terminus of the Florida Trail. You know, if you want to hike 1,500 miles through swamps to the Panhandle and Pensacola. :)
TAMPA
We drove through Tampa on our way north but stopped at an iconic Cuban bakery and breakfast spot called La Segunda. They have three or four locations around town and in St. Pete. I can’t remember trying so many things at a restaurant and thinking all of them were incredible. We had the pineapple upside down cake, cinnamon roll, guava cheese turnover, and Cuban sandwich. All of them ere melt in your mouth good and so was my café con leche.
CRYSTAL RIVER
We are a well traveled bunch and have been lucky to have a dozen or so “once in a lifetime animal encounters.” None of them beats swimming with the manatees at Crystal River. We rent our wet suits and boats at Hunter Springs Kayaks and paddle to Hunter Springs where the majority of them usually hang out. There can be 80-100 in an area the size of a tennis court. Trust me when I say you need to do this before you die.
BEER
Funky Buddha Brewery On our drive south, I forced a quick detour from I-95 to Funky Buddha Brewery in Ft. Lauderdale. It was right at 11 (brunch) so I got a pour of the Maple Bacon Coffee Porter. And for the road, a bottle of Snowed In Imperial Porter, which was $30 for a bottle and worth every penny.
Angry Chair Brewery This Tampa brewery is one of my happy places. They make some of the best imperial stouts in the world, Adjunct Trail with hazelnut and coffee being the best this time of year. They make a great rainbow sherbet beer, too, which sounds odd but try it and you will be glad you did. Their food is fantastic as well. We always get the brisket nachos on house made potato chips.
BOOKS
At Books & Books in Key West, I bought a copy of Carl Hiassen‘s Razor Girl, which is a laugh out loud funny mystery and set in Key West and Big Pine Key. Jen has always done such a great job reading aloud to the kids. Her go to Florida children’s books are The Lion’s Paw and the Wilderking Trilogy (Bark of the Bog Owl, etc.). One year in the Everglades we also read Dave Eggers The Eyes and the Impossible which is more a west coast book but is about animals on an island and a great story on a family adventuring.
Happy Key Hopping!
Brew
