I know how to travel—how to interweave work and fun, and how to adventure on a budget. It’s not exactly a Liam Neeson–level skill set, but it is a unique expertise born of tens of thousands of miles of hiking and twenty years of work travel.
I know what it’s like to hike for five months—and more than 2,500 miles—for less than five grand. I’ve crisscrossed the U.S. by car and plane for speaking events that required logistical precision that would make shipping companies jealous. I know how to travel the country as a family of four… in a Prius… with all our camping gear and boxes of books to sell crammed in the back. Heck, I’m writing this blog on an Allegiant flight with five outfits, a computer, and personal items all packed into a single bag that stows neatly under the seat in front of me.
I promised my daughter a big trip in 2025—for all the reasons. We had navigated some challenges and wanted to celebrate coming out the other side. She turned thirteen, and we wanted to commemorate her becoming a teenager. But more than anything, I just wanted some QT with my girl.
So this past November, we researched last-minute travel deals, purchased two discounted plane tickets, booked an economy hotel, packed one backpack each—and went to Rome. We tried to hit the highlights while leaving margin for unplanned adventure… and lots of gelato stops. And let me just say: if you’re ever hoping to talk to your kid about faith, bodies, or relationships, there may be no better destination. There’s seriously a church and half-naked artwork on every corner.
For anyone else heading to the Eternal City—especially with an early teen or tween—here are a few takeaways and travel tips:
Timing
The word is out on this place—and it has been for 2,000 years. This is not an off-the-beaten-path destination. If you’re going to go, aim for the non-peak travel season to avoid the heaviest crowds. November is considered off-season by Roman standards, and we still felt crushed at the Trevi Fountain and the Colosseum.
As much as possible, schedule visits to the most popular sites early or late in the day. Beat the crowds—or wait them out—for the best experience. My daughter said her two favorite spots were the Roman Forum and St Peter's Basilica. Not coincidentally, we arrived at both right when the gates opened.
Tickets
Because it was a last-minute trip, we purchased tickets the day of our visit at most venues. It worked well—with a few exceptions. Prices were reasonable, and kids thirteen and under were either free or half-price almost everywhere.
If you’re hoping to plan your visit around an audience with Pope Leo XIV, you’ll want to prepare in advance. He offers public audiences most Wednesday mornings as well as a Sunday blessing at noon, and he presides over Mass for special events and holidays.
To attend a Wednesday audience or a Mass inside St. Peter’s Basilica, apply for tickets ahead of time. The website notes that small groups can sometimes receive tickets the day before the event, but when we inquired, none were available. We ended up attending Mass in St. Peter’s Square with thousands of Catholics, pilgrims, tourists, and bystanders.
The Pope came outside to greet everyone before the service, and afterward we watched the liturgy unfold on large screens outside the Basilica. Priests distributed Communion to those gathered in the square during the Eucharist.
Besides missing Mass inside St. Peter’s, we also missed out on the Galleria Borghese because we didn’t have advance tickets. We considered waiting in the non-reserved line, but after visiting the Vatican Museums, the Capitoline Museums, a Leonardo da Vinci exhibit, and two smaller museum displays, we decided to swap the Borghese for the nearby zoo. After so much still life, it was refreshing to enjoy some wildlife.
Tours and Lines
We experienced long wait times at several sites, including the Pantheon and the Vatican Museums.
You can pay extra to “skip the line” and join a guided tour through the Vatican’s masterpieces, culminating in the Sistine Chapel. We opted to save money and explore on our own. While waiting in a chilly mist for ninety minutes in a line that moved like cold molasses, we briefly questioned that decision. But once inside, we were glad to wander at will rather than be herded along in a group.
The line at the Pantheon lasted about forty-five minutes and provided the perfect opportunity to grab gelato from Cremaria Monteforte near the northwest corner of the 1,900-year-old domed structure. I think it's a scientific fact that time spent eating gelato does not count toward overall wait time.
Most long lines in Rome are outdoors, so dress comfortably for the weather. Pack light layers and a compact umbrella (for rain or sun), and use the restroom before getting in line. Public restrooms are limited, so plan strategically around hotels, cafés, and visitor centers.
Tech
My phone didn’t have service in Rome, so I could only call, text, email, and check GPS when connected to Wi-Fi. I’m sure I could have configured it for full connectivity, but I appreciated the imposed limits on screen time. We relied on a guidebook and paper map to navigate and plan our days. (Yes, a paper map. And I made my daughter help guide us through the city. Take that Siri!) Before leaving the U.S., check your phone settings and international plan options.
We also packed an electrical outlet adapter—and I’m glad we did. Even with USB cords, we needed the adapter to charge our devices at the hotel.
Day Packs and Purses
During the day, we each carried a small daypack or satchel that was permitted at every attraction except the Capitoline Museums, where lockers were provided. We brought water bottles and refilled them at Rome’s public fountains. We also each carried a book to pass the time in lines. Beyond that: phone, small snacks, and wallet.
Lodging and Getting Around
We stayed outside the historic district in the Prati neighborhood, close to the Vatican and Castel Sant'Angelo. It was fantastic—less crowded than the historic center but still walkable to everything.
Aside from a train into the city and a bus back to the airport, we walked everywhere. If you’re willing to log the steps, you can see most of Rome’s major attractions on foot. Pack good walking shoes and comfy socks. We both wore our Astral Shoes and Farm to Feet Socks everyday.
Our lodging, Hotel Prati, was clean, simple, and surrounded by excellent restaurants. A 24/7 front desk attendant graciously entertained our attempts at Italian and happily offered recommendations in English. It was an economical and comfortable option.
Food
We considered booking a food tour, but my daughter wasn’t keen on being tied to a group itinerary. Instead, we snacked and ate our way across the city. If a café, bistro, or restaurant caught her eye, we stopped and tried it. It became a progressive five-day food tour.
We sampled everything from roasted chestnuts in a plaza to chicory salads and Roman artichokes at dinner. There was also plenty of pizza and pasta. We wandered local grocery stores to admire the selections and pick up snacks. Our favorite discovery? Maritozzi—a cream-filled sweet bun we found at several cafés and affectionately anglicized as a “cream burger.” Mmmmm… cream burger.
The best part of the trip was adventuring with my daughter—but the backdrop was hard to beat. If you’re considering Rome, I hope these tips help you optimize your experience—whether you’re hoping to save money, avoid crowds, pack light, or find the best gelato.
Ciao!
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About the Author: Jennifer is an Adventurer, Author, Speaker, Entrepreneur and mom of two who has a Masters in Public Affairs and a husband that plays bluegrass. Her blog focuses on life as she experiences it with a focus on Outdoor Adventure, Business, Public Affairs, Family, and Faith. For information on booking Jennifer as a speaker for your next event, email brew@jenniferpharrdavis.com or call (615) 708-4301.
